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DIY Wormery

What is a wormery?

A wormery is a special bin which contains worms and when organic matter from a kitchen is added to the bin, the worms digest and break it down into a rich compost.

But isn't that what a compost heap does?

A compost heap performs the same function as a wormery but it does it on a larger scale and it uses bacteria and micro-fungi to perform the job. A wormery is usually smaller and more compact. It is also designed to deal with smaller quantities of waste, and generally a wormery produces less odour, which makes it ideal for placing outside the backdoor close to the kitchen. On a domestic scale a Wormery also works faster than a traditional compost heap.

What type of worms are used?

The most common worm used by worm farmers is the Brandling or Tiger worm (Eisenia fetida). The species is especially adapted to breaking down organic matter, and it reproduces very quickly. There are seven or so varieties of earth worm native to the UK and unless you are an expert they will all appear very similar. There are a couple of New Zealand varieties of worms that have been introduced to the UK in root balls of ferns, they are dark in colour and flat for their entire length. The resemble long leaches. These intruders are dominant over our UK worms and should be removed and destroyed if found. Visit the Habitas site for an identity check.

Where can I get the worms?

Worms can be obtained from a working compost heap, or they can be purchased online from various locations. See the list on the right.

How to build a wormery

A Wormery is an enclosed bin which uses special types of worms to help break down organic matter. They are available for sale but you can also make your own.

Suitable materials for your Wormery

Recycled wood from old pallets (check that they are free from wood preservatives as they harm the worms)

An old plastic/standard plastic compost bin

Building Your Wormery


Drill drainage holes around the base of a plastic dustbin, approx 5cm from the base., 25cm apart. Drill a circle of air holes 5cm from the top of the bin.

Fill bin with 8-10cm layer of coarse sand or gravel.

On top of this place a circle of of wood or polythene with holes drilled for drainage.

Add a 7-8cm layer of moistened bedding material, such as well rotted compost manure or leaf mould.

Place at least 100 worms in the bedding. Brandling/tiger worms can be obtained from a mature compost heap, a working worm bin or they could be purchased.

Add a litre of chopped food to one side of the bin. Cover this with a well soaked whole newspaper.

Replace the lid and and leave undisturbed for at least 2 weeks for the worms to settle.

Maintaining your Wormery

Worms will eat almost anything that will decompose. They should be primarily fed on kitchen scraps but they will process weeds and other garden waste.

Worms like variety. Not too much of one thing!

Large quantities of citrus peel, seeds and diseased material and meat and fish are best avoided.

Worms can be killed by overfeeding. Don't add more waste until the previous addition has been composted.

Keep container covered to avoid fruit flies.

Don't allow the bin to get too hot or dry out.

If the heap begins to smell (too wet), pull everything out, mix it well with brown material and return to the bin.

If the heap remains unchanged (too dry) pull everything out, water it, mix it with green material and return to the bin.

Ready compost may be stored in medium-sized sacks (30/40litre) in a cool, dry place.

Have fun building your wormey

 


 




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